Sunday, September 03, 2006

Koh Samet : Paradise Island

Koh Samet means island in Thai, and Samet is tree that grows in abundance on the island, famed for its bark which is used in traditional medicine and boat building.

I fly in to Bangkok Airport and catch a bus or taxi to Pattaya, which is a beach resort about three hours drive away on the congested roads. I find a room, and sleep after the 13 hour long flight, the congestion of the airport and the long drive. When I awake I arrange accommodation at Samet with one of the Samet accommodation agencies based in Pattaya.

Next morning before breakfast I cram into an overcrowded mini-bus for the ninety minute drive to Ban Pae, which is the nearest port to Koh Samet. There is time while we wait for the tide to get some rice or noodles for a late breakfast before clambering into the ferry. The journey takes almost an hour and sometimes the swell rocks the small boat so much I worry it will turn over. But as we approach the island the waves still and I lean over the side staring at the thin white lines that are the beaches, backed by bright green of palm trees.

The island is shaped like the letter p with a long tail. At the top of the p is a fishing village with a jetty and a monastery and temple. The rest of the island is a national park where development is forbidden. The left side of the p, is a straight rocky coast with only one sandy beach. The other long side has long sandy beaches. I am staying about halfway down the long tail at Ao Wong Duen. There is no jetty at this beach and the boat stops in the narrow water. A raft is hauled out from shore and passengers climb down the boat a few at a time, our bags passed down to us, then stand on the raft which is hauled to the shallows. We then step into the knee deep warm water and wade ashore. A couple of smartly uniformed National Park police collect the park entry fee, and we make out way to our cabins dotted behind the tree line in a mango glade.

The island is small enough to walk around. There are some small restaurants and beach bars. Everyday, local people come over on the public ferries to sell fruits and snacks along the beaches. Everything must be imported, except for fish. There are no discos, go-go bars, cinemas, shopping precincts, mains electricity or other benefits of civilistation. The owner of my cabin runs a generator in the evening to power a strip light and fan in the room. But at midnight that stops and it is time to sleep. My entertainment consists of walking, swimming, talking to people I meet and reading my supply of books. Time goes by so fast. I am so happy and relaxed, and I turn off the neon light early and sleep a deep untroubled sleep.

When I was young the sight of coconut trees in travel films about far off places always seemed so exotic. I never ever dreamed that I would ever be able to see one. I truly know I am on vacation when I can sit under a coconut tree drinking the juice from a fresh green coconut. The beaches on Koh Samet are fine white sand. The long beach at the top of the p has the finest sand. It is like talculm powder and sings when pressure is placed on it. As you walk along high pitched musical notes are emitted at every step.

Ten days on Koh Samet passes by in a flash. Before one is ready it is time to wade out to the raft to go on the ferry back to the mainland and the long journey home. Back home when I tell people I have been in Thailand, their knowing smiles and winks show they do not really believe I have spend my time on paradise island.

Information : Koh Samet : Paradise Island

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